Historical and Geographical Context

Ismoili Somoni Peak (formerly Mount Communism)
Location: Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast, Jirgatol District, Tajikistan
Altitude: 7,495 meters above sea level
Mountain Ranges: Junction of the Academy of Sciences Range and the Peter I Range, northwestern Pamirs
Access: By helicopter from Dushanbe or Jirgatol; by vehicle to Depshar village, then on foot

Ismoili Somoni Peak, standing at 7,495 meters, is the highest mountain in Tajikistan and the former Soviet Union. Located at the convergence of the Academy of Sciences and Peter I mountain ranges, it dominates the northwestern section of the Pamir Mountains. The peak was discovered in 1928 during a Soviet-German research expedition and was initially named Stalin Peak. In 1962, it was renamed Communism Peak, and in 2000, the summit was officially designated Ismoili Somoni Peak in honor of the founder of the first Tajik state in the 10th century.

The mountain holds a significant place in the history of Soviet and Central Asian mountaineering. The first successful ascent was achieved in 1933 by a team from the Tajik-Pamir research expedition via the Bivachny glacier, with climber E. Abalakov reaching the summit on 2 September. Until the early 1960s, only Soviet mountaineers had conquered the peak, with British climbers later becoming the first foreigners to summit it.

Accessibility and Expedition Routes

Access to the Ismoili Somoni Peak region is limited by its remoteness and extreme altitude. The most efficient means of transportation is a 30–40 minute helicopter flight from Jirgatol airport, or a 1.5-hour flight from Dushanbe. Overland, the journey involves a 350-kilometer drive eastward from Dushanbe along the Vakhsh, Surkhob, and Muksu rivers to the village of Depshar in Jirgatol District, followed by a rigorous seven-day trek through four mountain passes—Belkandov, Irgay, Tamosha, and Kuray-Shapak—along the northern ridge of the Peter I Range. This leg of the journey requires the support of porters trained in high-mountain conditions.

Base Camps and Climbing Infrastructure

The principal base camps for high-altitude expeditions to Ismoili Somoni and the neighboring 7,105-meter Korzhenevskaya Peak are located in the upper reaches of the Fortambek glacier. Two main glades—Suloev and Moskvin—serve as launch points for summit attempts.

Suloev Glade, at 4,100 meters above sea level, lies within the left lateral moraine of the Turamys glacier. Between 1971 and 1977, a medical-biological expedition from the Tajik SSR’s Academy of Sciences conducted pioneering research here on the adaptation of living organisms to extreme alpine environments, establishing permanent shelters that continue to be used by climbers.

Mountaineers from the “Stormy Petrel” sports society developed a relatively accessible ascent route from the Pamir glacier snow plateau (a 12-kilometer-long, gently sloping ice field at 6,000 meters) along a ridge that was subsequently named in their honor. In the 1980s, a more direct route to the snow plateau was opened from the Walter glacier via Borodkin’s Ridge. This development shifted the center of mountaineering activity to Moskvin Glade, now the site of the Alp-Navruz base camp.

Moskvin Glade and Alp-Navruz Camp

Situated at 4,200 meters in a sub-alpine zone, Moskvin Glade lies at the confluence of the Walter and Moskvin glaciers—eastern tributaries of the Fortambek glacier. This 10-hectare site is protected from avalanches and rockfalls, making it an ideal staging area for expeditions. The glade hosts a variety of facilities essential for high-altitude mountaineering, including:

• A small lake of spring-fed water
• Four insulated, two-person administrative tents
• Eleven wooden and aluminum housing units for climbers
• A canteen, shower, sauna, and communication center
• Diesel-powered electricity and natural gas for cooking
• A helicopter landing area and fuel storage tanks, replenished from Dushanbe

These facilities allow the camp to support extended expeditions during the operational season, which typically lasts from July to September. Outside of this period, harsh weather conditions—freezing temperatures, snowstorms, and limited access—render the camp non-operational.

Ismoili Somoni Peak remains the crown jewel of mountaineering in the Pamirs and across Central Asia. Its towering elevation, historical significance, and challenging environment continue to attract climbers, researchers, and adventurers from around the world. The infrastructure at Moskvin Glade, together with the region’s rugged beauty and scientific relevance, positions the area as a premier destination for high-altitude exploration and alpinism in Tajikistan.