Hissar District: A Fortress of Time and Legend

Located just 30 kilometers west of Dushanbe and 6 kilometers from the center of Hissar town, the Hissar Valley stretches like a cradle between mountains — a 70-kilometer-long, intermontane depression ranging from 2 to 18 kilometers in width. Through it run the rivers Kofarnihon, Qaratag, and Shirkent, giving life to a land steeped in ancient history, myth, and architectural grandeur.

Once a center of early civilization, the Hissar Valley has been inhabited since the 4th–3rd millennia BC, during the Stone Age. Over the centuries, it became part of Bactria, then the Greco-Bactrian and Kushan empires. Today, scattered archaeological traces — from teppa (man-made earthen mounds) to madrassahs and irrigation channels — mark the valley as a living museum of Central Asian history.

A Legacy of Empires and Trade

By the Middle Ages, Hissar had gained renown across the Islamic world for its skilled craftsmen and thriving market. Once one of 28 territories under the control of the Emirate of Bukhara, it housed a royal residence and administrative hub.

Although it fell into decline by the early 20th century, the remnants of the ancient town remain an important historical and architectural site, covering an area of 86 hectares. At the heart of the complex is the Hissar Fortress — a strategic stronghold where the Governor-General of East Bukhara once ruled. The fortress’s outer gate, flanked by twin cylindrical towers and connected by a tall lancet arch, still stands proudly — a striking example of 18th–19th-century Bukhara-style architecture.

The hill on which the fortress stood was shaped into terraced platforms faced with baked brick, once accessed by wide stairways that have since disappeared.

Scholarly Stones: Madrassahs and Mausoleums

Adjacent to the fortress are two grand madrassahs — educational institutions that once pulsed with the rhythms of intellectual life. The older of the two, Madrassah-i Kuhna, dates back to the 16th–17th centuries. With its large domed courtyard and multiple hujra (student cells), it could accommodate up to 150 students in its heyday before its closure in 1921.

Next to it stands the Madrassah-i Nav, built in the 17th–18th centuries. Although only its front-left side remains two stories tall, the complex has been carefully restored to reflect its original form. Both madrassahs echo the style and symmetry of Islamic complexes found in Bukhara and Samarqand.

South of the old madrassah lies the Mausoleum of Mahdumi A’zam — a 16th–17th-century tomb dedicated to a spiritual master whose identity remains a mystery. The title Mahdumi A’zam, meaning “Greatest Master,” was commonly used across Central Asia, making the exact figure buried here a subject of ongoing scholarly debate.

The Singing Mosque and the Reborn Caravanserai

Another architectural gem is the Sangin (Stony) Mosque, built between the 12th and 16th centuries. Its name reflects the use of stone in the lower half of its walls. The mosque features an extraordinary acoustic innovation: four resonating chambers shaped like bottomless ceramic jugs embedded within the brickwork beneath the dome. These chambers enhance sound projection during prayers and sermons — a testament to the sophisticated design of Islamic architects.

Nearby stands the Khishtin Caravanserai — once a crumbling relic, now a remarkable example of modern restoration. Originally from the 17th–18th centuries, only a meter-high wall remained when restoration began. Using a single 1913 photograph as reference, architects and historians painstakingly rebuilt the inn to reflect its original grandeur. Today, the caravanserai stands as a tribute to the devotion of those who preserved its story.

Myths Written in Stone

The Hissar Fortress is also a setting for ancient legends. Local lore tells of great battles between Rustam and Afrosiyob — legendary heroes from Ferdowsi’s Shahnameh. One tale claims Afrosiyob built the fortress to protect himself from Rustam’s wrath.

Another story speaks of Caliph Ali, who is said to have traveled to Hissar to spread Islam. Standing on a nearby mountain now called Poi Dul-dul, he lowered a rope into the fortress and entered like a tightrope walker. Recognized and captured, Ali summoned his mystical horse, which brought him the famed sword Zulfiqor. With it, he defeated the evil magician ruling the fortress and escaped.

A Restful Finish

After exploring the fortress complex, visitors can relax under the shade of two massive chanor (sycamore) trees — believed to be 500–700 years old — beside a cozy teahouse. Here, traditional Tajik dishes are served alongside fragrant green tea, offering a perfect pause in a place where centuries of history whisper through every stone.

Hissar is easily reached from Dushanbe by public transport, with the final leg to the fortress completed either on foot or by hitching a short ride.